Autumn 2011: Drakes London

Drakes of London has added a spin to the sartorial landscape since the 1970s. And now the brand has been given a home of its own, as the first Drakes store recently opened its doors in London, writes Emma Holmqvist

 
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Few brands manage the challenge to appeal to more than one style tribe at once. Drakes of London is unusual in that sense, as it has succeeded in wangling its way into the wardrobes of boardroom dwellers and achingly cool style mavens alike. Celebrated for its understated and carefully crafted pieces designed to complement tailored looks, the essence of Drakes of London is based around quality craftsmanship, but it shouldn’t be dismissed as a humourless luxury brand. Subtle eccentricity, applied in that inimitable British way, forms an important part of the Drakes recipe. Quirky elements come through in the shape of unexpected colour combinations or prints featuring unorthodox motives such as unicorns or ski-clad little figures.

Founded in 1977 by Michael Drake, Jeremy hull and Isabel Dickson, Drakes of London started its days as a purveyor of fine scarves, and gradually extended its range to incorporate handmade ties and printed silk handkerchiefs. Before long, the small-scale company had morphed into a brand in its own right. Drakes of London is now the largest independent producer of handmade ties in England. Despite having expanded at a respectable rate over the past 30 years, the expert tie-maker still manufactures its collections in the creative hub that is London’s Clerkenwell. Not only does this operational aspect add to the company’s strong British identity, it also directly appeals to its core consumer who would think twice before opting to buy a tie or scarf fitted with the ubiquitous label, ‘Made in China’.

Throughout the course of its progression, Drakes of London has received a string of prestigious accolades in relation to its design and export achievements, including the Queen’s Award for Export and the UK Fashion Export Gold Award for Outstanding Export Achievement. The first ever Drakes shop opened in May 2011 in the refined area of Mayfair in London. Wedged between Savile Row and Bond Street, the positioning of the brand is strategic as Drakes is aspiring to become the designated haberdasher of the tailoring bastion.

The shop serves up all manner of Drakes goods and the selection comprises neckwear, cufflinks, sweaters and footwear. As a nod to the traditional Savile Row practice, a bespoke service is available for neckwear pieces. A number of different tie lengths are offered, all of which have been crafted from individual patterns graded carefully to correspond to the appropriate length of the tie, to give the tie knot area the perfect width, avoiding it appearing too wide or narrow. In addition, the corporate bespoke tie service offers particular attention to detail and quality; as part of the formula, all ties are handmade using English silks. Extending beyond ties, bespoke touches such as tonal logos can be applied on request to cashmere scarves.

In keeping with the company’s identity, the store has been kitted out with armchairs upholstered in Harris Tweed and it also features cabinetry from the Natural History Museum. The requisite gentleman’s reading room essential, the fireplace, is also present within and punctuates the overall feel of the concept.

www.drakes-london.com

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