Dynamic modern architecture blends with royal palaces and stately historical buildings, designer fashion boutiques line medieval cobbled streets, tree-fringed squares host cool cafés and smart restaurants. Beneath a skyline of verdigris roofs, fancy domes, swirling spires and redbrick towers, Copenhagen is a city that packs in plenty of culture and a lot of fun.
Shoppers head for the mile-long pedestrian Strøget, where there’s everything from top international brands and the interior design for which Denmark is justly famous, to high street favourites and souvenirs. Take a detour into the web of surrounding streets and you find small independent shops stashed with appealingly different merchandise. In the narrow streets around Grønnegade, colourful half-timbered houses have been converted into fashion emporia. July is peak season for the sales, so there are bargains to be had.
In the heart of town, joyous Tivoli delights visitors of every age. So much more than a thrilling amusement park, Tivoli has elegant restaurants, glorious gardens, and an array of top-notch entertainment from classical to pop concerts on the outdoor stage. At night, 110,000 coloured lamps light up the fountains and fl owers, creating a romantic wonderland contrast to the rollercoaster rides.
While the pleasingly walkable city centre has countless attractions – The National Gallery and Ny Carlsberg Glypotek are highlight art museums, and the royal Rosenborg and Amalienborg Castles are unmissable – one of the delights of Copenhagen is discovering some of its distinct neighbourhoods. Young Copenhageners flock to vibrant Vesterbro, a district to the west of the Central railway station, where smart designer shops line Istedgade, galleries display work by up-and-coming artists and the main square, Halmtorvet, is filled with fine cafés and fancy restaurants. Vesterbro is also where you’ll find the Vega complex, Copenhagen’s most popular music venue. Housed in a listed 1950s building it attracts international performers and the best DJs.
With its laid-back cocktail bar and the latest music trends played until dawn, Rust is the favoured club scene in multi-cultural Nørrebro, Copenhagen’s ‘Latin Quarter’ north of the city centre, where minimalist café Pussy Galore’s Flying Circus is known for its classic Arne Jacobsen chairs and funky fusion kitchen. Hunt out antiques and clothing by new designers in the area around Ravnsborggade, and check out the renowned microbrewery, Norrebro Bryghus.
The long light days of summer turn Copenhagen into an outdoor city, and in early July the Copenhagen Jazz Festival takes over the streets and seemingly every available venue. It attracts some of the world’s finest jazz musicians, and most of the 800-plus performances are free.
The city has a vibrant and flourishing cultural life and an ever-changing number of hip bars, restaurants, cafés and clubs to suit every taste. At weekends, nightlife only really starts to get going after midnight; many bars don’t close until 5 am or even later. The gay scene is one of Europe’s best, and as locals make the most of the summer months, the city seems to breathe enjoyment, day and night. It even has beaches and swimming pools along the revitalised harbour front, and a buzzy new urban beach on Amager Island.
Copenhagen is also an incredibly family-friendly city that offers a big range of activities, from parks, playgrounds and fairytale castles to hands-on museums that will keep everyone from tots to teenagers happily entertained. Experimentarium is a brilliant science-based museum, and for the starstruck, the Tycho Brahe Planetarium has a dazzling IMAX Space Theatre. Children also enjoy riding on the little harbour boats that are part of the city’s excellent public transportation system and going on canal cruises to see the Little Mermaid. For a change of pace, Sweden is just a short rail trip away across the elegant Øresund bridge that links Denmark with Malmö. “Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen” goes the song – and it is!